Thy and I had the benefit of meeting one of his colleagues who has 3 Rainier summits under his belt – including one with RMI and another where he cycled from Seattle and then summitted Rainier and cycled back in one day! He shared some interesting tips:
- Layering & Personal Temperature – the lower elevations can be warm and there can be dramatic temperature variances on the upper parts of the mountain since you will be climbing hard then waiting for extended periods at log jams. Having layers and a system of being able to put stuff on/take it off easily is important. Also think through mechanics of easy access for bathroom breaks without stripping. RMI is also strict about when you can take off your pack, so we won’t always be able to stop and re-adjust on our own schedules.
- Dummy Cords – At higher elevations where it is really windy, dummy cording stuff is important. Anything that isn’t nailed down will fly off. Also good when you get tired/lacking focus.
- Gear System – having pockets or your own system for consistency on what goes where in your gear will really help, e.g. goggles always go here, glasses always here etc. Also think about your pack and what you’re going to need that day so you can put it near the top.
- Water System – Having access to water as you climb is important, but hydration packs freeze and bottles strapped in or on a pack aren’t easily accessible. So test out your own system in advance and have a plan.
- Food System – Similar to water, easy access to snacks is helpful to keep energy up on the big day. Take advantage of extra pockets or add-on pouches to your pack to have things handy. Note that things like Power Bars freeze at higher elevations so aren’t good choices.
- Meals at Camp Muir – apparently the hot water available at Camp Muir isn’t always super hot. This can cause problems with dehydrated meals since they don’t cook properly.
- Taping Feet – If you have sensitive feet or are prone to blisters, try pre-taping using something durable, even duct tape. The plastic boots also increase moisture which can add to chafing.
- Personalizing Your Gear – Rental gear is cool, but doesn’t give you the chance to do “dress rehearsals”, personalize your pack, or check for “hot spots” that might be rubbing. If you’re renting, try trying everything once before the real deal.
- The Small Things Matter – Opening zip lock bags for snacks in the dark with mitts at 10,000 ft becomes a challenge. Simple stuff like adding duct tape tabs makes life a lot easier without taking off your gloves. Check out your own system and figure out your routines/preferences.
- Technique – In addition to other rescue skills, we’ll also learn stuff like “the rest step” to reduce exertion and “pressure breathing” at altitude. If you want to get a head start, Google them, read up, and do some practice so it becomes more natural. Learning two days before might not allow you much time to get accustomed to it.
- The Shoe’s On the Other Foot – Climbing the entire mountain in rigid plastic boots alone is rough, especially on lower elevations. Consider packing regular hiking boots in addition to the plastic boots. There is a trade-off in terms of space/weight, but ultimately down to your preference as to whether you think you can clump all the way back down or whether you want the convenience of a regular hiking boot.
Hope this helps!
Great information here!
I’m really curious about the pressure breathing. Are there any sites out there that you would recommend checking out?
I have heard the same thing about the hot water up at Muir so I am planning on brining my personal cook stove. As long as I don’t run out of fuel, I’m more than happy to share with the rest of the group.